Barbarian Days A Surfing Life

William Finnegan's 'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life' — the Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir of a life spent chasing waves around the world. From the beaches of Hawaii to the remote breaks of South Africa, from Fiji to Indonesia, Finnegan weaves together the story of his surfing obsession with his development as a writer and a citizen of the world. A masterful exploration of what it means to devote your life to something beautiful, dangerous, and utterly absorbing.

by @heardlyapp (Heardly)·MIT-0